Burren Way Trip Report

By Sam Demas

Overview:

As part of my research for a “Country Study” of long distance walking in Ireland, I walked much of this 132km classic Irish National Long Distance Waymarked Way through the sublime Burren landscape.  While this walk is 73% on little-used roads due to access rights limitations, it passes through a magical cultural and natural landscape abounding in historical, archaeological, botanical, geological, and habitat features.  The Burren is part of the UNESCO recognised Burren & Cliffs of Moher Geopark.  In addition to walking on the Way, its well worthwhile to depart from the Waymarked Way to take in some of the excellent National Looped Walks and nearby features. This is a brief sketch of the route I took and some wonders encountered.

Saturday, March 5

After a three hour train ride from Dublin to Galway I was able to spend time in the spectacular Charlie Byrne’s bookstore, and then stop in for a beer at the marvelous old Travelers pub Tigh Neachtain.  There is a bus every hour to Gort, where I had dinner and then was the first guest in a delightful AirBNB family home in the tiny settlement of Boston, right by an extension of the Burren Way.

Sunday, March 6

Delightful B&B hosts Chris and Sarah provided lots of local information and the next morning Chris introduced me to some of his favorite holy  wells, archaeological sites (e.g. Famine Road in the Burren National Park, Penetential Cairns) and to their friends Cheryl and Patrick McCormack.  When we stopped at the Father Ted house to visit, we learned that Partick — local poet, storyteller, farmer, activist and boxer — was leading a Burrenbeo Walk that afternoon, and I signed up immediately.  This gave me just enough time to hike over to Lough Avallah to meet the amazing farmer Harry Jeunck and walk part of this looped walk, just enough to know I had to return to finish this spectacular walk.  A group about 24 participated in Patrick’s 4 hour guided walk and listened to the stories of the beautiful limestone pavement covered land above Patrick’s farm.  Afterwards we gathered for tea at the family home (aka Father Ted’s House).  I met many wonderful hikers through this monthly Burrenbeo walk and got a lift to Corrofin to take in the last evening of the music festival and start out my walk from Corrofin, which is usually the ending point.  I wanted ample opportunity to talk with Brendhan McGrath, planner and author of the book Landscape and Contemporary Irish Society, which was a real treat.

Monday, March 7

Brendan and his dog walked with me the first few miles on the road as I headed towards Carron.  The beautiful road along the river Fergus (which flows largely underground, but surfaces before Corofin to form the Inchiquin Lake) is renowned fishing country.  Brendan later caught up with me by car on the trail to kindly deliver some food and extra water in case I didn’t find services along the way!  Ah, the kindness of strangers is one of the rewards of walking!

Stopped at Lough Avalla farm to complete the spectacular looped walk and then met with remarkable farmer Harry Jeuken for tea, and interviewed him for a profile I have written.  This is one of the most serious and well planned traditional livestock farming operations I’ve visited and one of the most beautiful walks I’ve ever taken.

Pushed on following the Green Road and then tarmacked roads reaching Carron after dark.  Pleasantly exhausted after a wonderful meal and lively conversation with the owner of McGough’s B&B.

Tuesday, March 8

A research day in which I visited with folks at the remarkable Burren Life Programme in Carron Old Schoolhouse, and then hitched up to Kinvara to meet with staff at its amazing partner organization, Burrenbeo.  After lunch it was getting too late to rejoin the Burren Way and continue on over Slieve Elva, so I hitched a ride to Fanore and stayed in a delightful farm B&B, Fermoyle Farmhouse, operated by farm family Patrick and Jessica McCarthy.  Patrick’s family has been farming the land for five generations and he participates in the progressive, “High Nature Value Farming” scheme operated by Burren Life Programme.

Wednesday, March 9

Located in the Caher River Valley, the farm road follows the glorious route up the Burren Way which is known as the Khyber Pass.  It took me past the ancestral home of poet, writer, Catholic theologian, and interpreter of Celtic spiritualism, John O’Donohough.  My final full day of walking was sunny and warm.  the views along the ridge walk from Fanore to Doolin are glorious, and on a sunny day one can clearly see how Fanore got its name, which means “golden fan”.  Once I reached the outskirts of Doolin I decided to hitch through town and stop at the Sweeny’s B&B to drop off my backpack and continue hitching south to where the Cliffs of Moher walk begins.  Walked Northward to Doolin.  Its a wild, windy walk and populated with day-trippers who come in by the busload and are ill-equipped for a walk of this level of challenge.  In March the trail is quite muddy and eroded in places, but the views are incredibly rewarding.  It must be one of the world’s most dramatic coastal cliff paths.

See video of cliffs of Moher in a gale, taken by Sam December 2015:

Thursday, March 10

Met with Eoin Hogan, Rural Recreation Officer to discuss my “Case Study” of the Burren Way, then off to spend two days with friends at the luxurious Dromolond Castle, courtesy of  the generous Ed Barlow.