Trip Report: Kerry Way

May 2016

Overview: The Kerry Way affords beautiful coastal views, passes through upland moors and bucolic agricultural areas, and passes under Ireland’s highest mountain and one if its most spectacular mountains ranges, the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks. The full Kerry Way is 130 miles long, beginning at Killarney and proceeding inland towards Glenbeigh, after which the trail generally follows at a distance the shoreline of the Inervagh Peninsula and circles back to Killarney.  Walkers usually allow 9 or more days for the full walk, though it can be done more quickly by very strong walkers.   Having only four days for this walk, I cut out certain sections and hitch-hiked ahead to get a sense of the range of terrains covered.  This was a research trip so I stopped fairly often to talk with people who work on the trail.  The trail passes many villages and accommodations are plentiful. 

Tips:

• The Walking the Kerry Way Website is a great resource for planning a trip.  It includes suggested itineraries, a map with accommodations pictured and links for booking, a detailed trail description, a list of publications and maps, etc.  Also see the Irish Trails website.
• Guidebooks: I found the “Kerry Way Rucksack Reader” by Sandra Bardwell much easier to use and more practical than Donal Nolan’s “Kerry Way: a walking guide”, which is rather dense and stronger on historical/cultural information than on trail directions.   
• There are two youth hostels on the Kerry Way, and several more private hostels, all of which are included in the website cited above.
• OSI maps 78, 83, and 84 cover all but small portions of the route.

DAY 1 Monday, May 16, 2016, Killarney to Black Valley, 15 miles

Traveled from Dublin to Killarney via train, a three hour trip.  Trains leave every 2 hours from Heuston Station.  Arrived about 10:15 AM and walked through town a few miles to beginning of Kerry Way at the Bridge over Flesk River.

The beautiful Muckross Abbey and Muckross House are worth a visit. There will be lots of tourists for the first few miles, but they soon disappear as the trail wends above Torc Falls.  At Muckross, which is part of the Killarney National Park, I met with Brendan O’Shea, a Conservation Officer at the National Park and an expert on trail maintenance. 

Conservation Ranger.  Had lunch by river, above the falls, and followed the trail through uplands and on to a mature oak forest frosted with moss.  Crossed over road at Derrycunnihy church and followed the trail down through a lovely oak and holly forest by the Upper Lake, and then to Lord Brandon’s Cottage, which was closed.

Had planned to stay at Shamrock Farm in Black Valley, but they were full so I stayed at the Black Valley youth hostel.  It has a very basic shop in which to purchase food to cook in the well-stocked kitchen.  Lively social scene.    

DAY 2, Tuesday May 17, Black Valley to Glencar, 12 miles

Met with Patrick O’Sullivan and his mother Shiela, who has been running accommodations for walkers since 1967 at Shamrock Farm B&B.  Then walked up the road to meet with Sean O’Donoghue, who works on trail maintenance and has lots of entertaining stories and opinions.    The walk up the Black Valley to the head of the serene Bridia Valley is gorgeous.  At the top you can stop and peer into the next glen, which has a very different, greener and more agricultural feel.  The footing a bit tricky on the steep downhill into the river valley.  The Cookie Monster Cafe is a great place to stop for lunch or a snack, and also has accommodations.  Walked by road the rest of the way to Glencar, rather than up and over the hill.  This may have been a mistake in that it brought one to a place in Glencar that is distant from Rowan Tree Pub, Bar, and B&B where I stayed.  Stopped in Climbers Inn, established in 1897, to get stamps and a post card.  It would be a good budget place to stay.

Day 3, Wednesday, May 18, Glenbeigh to Cahersiveen, 15 miles walking

After walking on roads for several miles managed to hitch a ride to Glenbeigh, where I started walking again where the bridge crosses the River Behy.  A steep forest track leads up and away from Glenbeigh.  Great views back to Rossbeigh

strand, which embraces a beautiful safe harbor, and across to the Dingle Peninsula.    A steady climb eventually leads to beautiful views of the Ferta valley and into beautiful sheep country.  Got off the trail somehow in the beautiful Foilmore Valley and stopped a passing farmer to ask directions.  He gave me a ride back to the trail, which I followed up to where the Kerry Way continues to Waterville.  There I hitched a ride to Cahersiveen, where I stayed the night in the walker-friendly Invernagh Heights B&B.  

[Note: The Donal Nolan “Kerry Way: a walking guide” somehow led me to believe it was 20K to Cahersivenn.  Turns out it’s more like 30, as going to Caherssiveen is an 8 mile spur trail that one takes for accommodation.]

Day 4, Thursday, May 19, Waterville to Caherdaniel,  coastal route, 13 km, 8 miles.  Took me about 5 hours with lots of stops to take pictures and eat lunch.

Wanted another coastal walk and a short day, so hitched from Cahersivenn to Waterville and walked via the coastal route (there is an inland alternative) to Catherdaniel.  

A fantastic walk!  A gentle coastline that reveals continuously opening vistas over the day.  Could smell the sea and marvel at the green sloping fields sloping to the sea.  Dotted with farms and sheep, and some cattle.  A good mix of road and off road walking.  The roads were all very little travelled.  Ascending to the high point between Waterville and Caherdaniel afforded fabulous vistas in both directions and finally a good, if gauzy, view of the two Skelligs.  Many ruined  cottages and many being rebuilt.  Lots of informative signboards and comfortable benches along the way, and interesting sites including an old cemetery with an early Christian gravestone carved with a Greek cross.  Stopped for lunch and, absorbed in beautiful views, was spooked by the two white ponies who could see what I was up to and joined me, poking their heads into my space before I knew they were there!  Very beautiful and persistent beasts!  

Looking East toward Bunnavalla and Caherdaniel is a breathtaking view of green farm fields sloping down to a peaceful seascape of islets and broad reaching arms encircling bay after bay.  Stunning landscape from there to Caerdaniel, including passage through the Derrynane National Historic Park, with its hazel tunnel pathways, beautiful streams, and resplendent wild flowers.

Stayed at Travelers Rest, a low budget, tidy, clean and friendly hostelry.  Very nice proprietress, who also works at the gas station across the street. Dinner at the Blind Piper Pub with live music accompanying.  

Day 5, Friday, exploring the Derrydane National Historic Park and the historic Daniel O’Connell house.  Met with Patricia Deane, Rural Recreation Officer, who got me to Killarney just in time for the Dublin train after a harrowing car ride to the station;-)!